POV: Sindhis make nutritious food out of garden weeds
Meet Loonak (लूणक) ~ aka Purslane (Kulfa), which grows in gardens, in fields and even between roadside pavers!
Loon in Sindhi refers to salt and Loonak is named so because of its inherent salty flavours.
Memories :
1980’s, Summer vacations, roaming in by-lanes, spotting succulent Loonak (purslane) growing street side, shooting up between the cracks of bricks on the road, but you resist the urge to pluck because foraging in urban areas feels awkward and criminal (people gawk as if you are stealing ).
“Weeds? No dear, that’s lunch.”
You come home, watch your mother patiently separating purslane leaves from pinkish stems, cleaning the bunch that your father bought from the local market, along with some Spinach leaves. One bowl containing Chanadal soaked in water, another has Mung dal chilka, a portion of which will go in loonak and another portion in Khichdi, that pairs beautifully with Loonak.
The Drama:
The cumin sizzles, onions sweat, the saag wilts, tomatoes surrender their tangy juices, chanadal and mung dal chilka jump in, chillies add oomph, golden turmeric and dusty coriander powder stir in colors and flavours. The pressure cooker whistles, the nose-tickling grassy aroma marries the hot humid air of the small kitchen on a sultry summer afternoon.
Moments later, garlic frizzles in hot oil and the tempering sizzles over the saag. Khichdi rests. Rotis fluff on the tawa. Roasted Papad stacked. Pickles, mangoes, and kachumber (salad) on standby. Doordarshan plays a classic in the background while you wait for your siblings to join you for lunch. Sitting cross-legged on the Terrazzo flooring, the ceiling fan on full speed, battling the humid air from the entryway, still wet from buckets of water tossed to cool it down.
You mix the semisoft khichdi, chilled dahi and freshly made Loonak and enjoy a bite. That khatta kick!!! Core memory unlocked!
Sour and salty with earthy flavours when cooked, Loonak contains the highest concentration of α-linolenic acid (ALA) compared to any green leafy vegetable. ALA is an essential plant-based omega-3 fatty acid that is good for heart health and cellular function. Purslane is a nutrient-dense, low-calorie green. It is a good source of essential dietary minerals.
It’s not a side dish. It’s the main character with abandonment issues since not many people appreciate the rustic flavours of Purslane! Personally I like it better when cooked with dal and Spinach like Sindhi Saibhaji, rather than a simple stir fry.
Do you have any summer times food memories from the past? Do share in the comments! Let’s relive the best moments of the yore!
- 1 large bunch of Lunak
- 10-15 Spinach leaves
- ½ Cup Chana daal
- ¼ Cup Mung Dal Chilka
- 2 Medium sized Onions
- 2 small Tomatoes
- 3 Green Chillies (adjust as per taste)
- ¼ inch piece of Ginger
- ¼ tsp Turmeric Powder
- 1 Tbsp Coriander Powder
- 1 Tsp Cumin Seeds
- Salt as per taste
- 1 Tbsp Oil
- 1 Tbsp oil/Ghee
- 4-5 cloves of Garlic
- 1 Dry red chilli pounded or some chilli flakes
- Soak chana dal and Mung dal chilka in water for half an hour. Rinse and drain.
- Pick Purslane (Loonak) leaves. Can use stems if tender, else discard.
- Discard spinach stems.
- Wash Purslane and spinach well and roughly chop.
- Peel and chop onions.
- In a pressure cooker, heat oil and add cumin seeds.
- Add onions and cook till light brown.
- Add chopped tomatoes, chillies, ginger and salt. Cook on medium to high heat till tomatoes are mushy.
- Add dals, greens, turmeric powder and coriander powder and mix well.
- Cook on high heat for 2-3 minutes and then add 1 and half cup of water.
- Close the lid of the cooker and wait for a whistle.
- Lower the heat and cook under pressure for 15 minutes.
- When the pressure subsides, gently mash the greens with a wooden whisker (Mathni) making sure to not mash all of the chanadal.
- In a tadka pan, heat ghee/oil and add chopped garlic.
- When the garlic turns brown, switch off the heat and immediately add chilli flakes and pour the tadka over the saag. Cover with lid.
- If the texture appears to be non homogenous ( i.e if you can see water separating at the edges) add 1 tbsp of Jowar flour and whisk well again.
- Adjust the consistency and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Tastes best with Chhuri Khichdi (Khili khilli khichdi i.e rice and mung dal chilka boiled in water with salt, till soft and fluffy), roti or even with Dhodho (patted roti made from Jowar or rice flour)
